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France Moving to France

Why We Moved to France

A Grumpy American Moves to France
The United States and France have the same roots.

One could write a book about the similarities and differences between the two.

I have been asked if I ever wrote an article specifically about our move to France, which is, after months, still in process. Our worldly goods are stuck in Rotterdam since the 6th of September, and I hope to see them soon. Also, Tami is in France only as a visitor until she retires or finds a job that will let her work remotely from here. Meanwhile, I paint. The downstairs is finished except for the laundry room. Right now I’m working on Tami’s office. It’s nice paint. I have no plans to paint my studio/office, but I’ll most likely be buying another tub of paint. It’s good paint, but we have a lot of walls.

So, maybe as much as ten years ago, maybe not quite so long, but certainly more than six years ago, we decided that we’d like to be able to see Europe without paying $2k a pop each to visit annually. Well, I can see Europe by opening my eyes in the morning, and for 5€ I can get to Bordeaux or Poitiers plus most points in between on a regional train. It’s cheap because I’m older than dirt, thus showing that there are advantages to everything. For a bit more money I can take a train or plane to almost anywhere in Europe. The train will probably require me to get to Paris, but there are several regional international airports closer than the big city. I’d love to return to Barcelona and eat some more arroz negro con mariscos at Restaurante Ferran, for example. And that really was it, originally. We did not want to get away from the United States, we wanted to see Europe. But Europe is a big place (a bigger market than the USA, in fact) and just where should we go?

Germany? We both have ancestors there. My grandfather Nick was born in Germany (before and now his birthplace is in France) but that doesn’t help. The United Kingdom is nice, really, but it’s very expensive to move to and we can’t afford it. Ditto for Ireland, although my McDaniels ancestors from County Kerry might be happy to see me. We have visited Italy and Portugal and Spain, all lovely countries, but given the way climate is going, liable to be too hot for us to want to live in. We don’t know enough about Eastern Europe, and it costs more to get there from the US. Switzerland is where 48% of my DNA is from (Bern, since you asked) but since neither of us is a billionaire, no way we could afford to move there.

France has one distinct advantage, and that is tax reciprocity with the US. That means that each country credits whatever tax you paid the other one against what you owe it. Income tax is higher in France at the moment, but that’s all we’ll pay. In the UK, and most countries, we’d have to pay our entire tax bill to each country. Ouch! And in the end, that settled it. Six years ago I began studying French every day, and so did Tami. According to a couple of online tests I’ve taken, I’m apparently at a B1 level, which means that I can function okay in day-to-day interactions, so long as the conversation isn’t too advanced. This actually seems true. Six years, folks! French seemed easy at first, because the vocabulary is deceptively easy. That’s because we use so much of it in English. But, watch out. Attend means to wait. To attend is assister, which can also be taken to mean “assist” although I’d probably use “aider” which means, oh, aid.

We took our first property searching trip in the fall of 2019, looked at a few things but mostly did tourist stuff, but we did orient ourselves to where we wanted to buy. We had already checked out Brittany earlier that year, and now we checked out Charente, a “department”, (think US County) in the Southwest of France. Charente is, in fact about a mile south of our house in the department of Vienne. We decided to return in the spring of 2020, burdened only by the knowledge that it can be difficult for an American to get a mortgage in France, for which we can thank IRS reporting rules, apparently. Well, 2020, let’s see, something big came up. Huh. Anyway, while we waited for that to resolve itself, and managed not to die from Covid, we sold a couple of properties we owned in Arizona not too far from the Grand Canyon. We bought them for a song, one could have been put on a credit card (no kidding) and sold them for enough that we’ve had to pay capital gains tax for a couple of years. Lots of capital gains, which meant that we could just buy something, up to a certain value.

So, in the fall of 2021 we got our passes sanitaires, proofs of vaccination in Euro style, and spent three weeks in a very nice B&B in Agudel, outside of Jonzac, again in Charente. Weekdays we looked at houses (but not on Toussaints, 1 Novembre, or Jour d’armisiste, 11 Novembre, because those are national holidays and France is serious about national holidays. And not much on weekends because French Estate Agents don’t work then. For a couple of weeks nothing moved us. Then we saw the house in which I now sit. A candidate! A few days later, we saw another one, and put in an offer on it. Tami called around to tell the other agents non. Imagine her surprise when the response from this seller was “So how much would you pay?” She lowballed them. They took it. And here I sit, as it were. It took four months, one of which is probably our fault, to close the sale. I came here in April of 2022, and was able to stop wearing a mask before I left at the end of June. (You can stay 90 days without a visa, no more.)

Back in Vegas we began getting serious about the move. When I first returned it seemed odd not to say bonjour to everyone, but in fact I don’t think that would go over well with everyone. Last Winter we started packing, ultimately filling 99 boxes (I think, it’s been a while.) And applying for Visas. For that we had to fill in forms online and go for an interview in Los Angeles, which we did. A week or so later our passports came back with visas attached, which is why I am now living in France legally, although an alien. I arrived last May 10th, and haven’t left the country since. I could, of course, go almost anywhere in Europe using my French visa, but, heck, why tour when I can paint? Tami’s employer decided they didn’t want to risk having to pay French taxes, but she now plans to leave them sometime before or right at the end of the year. And then she can come home to all this bright new paint! Yay!

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Culture France

Things that Shocked Me When I Moved to France

A View from the Citadel Hill in Bitche, Moselle, France in October 2019

NOTHING

That’s out of the way, then. That’s right, nothing shocked me when I moved to France last May. What? Am I saying that France is just like America? Nope, pardner, I ain’t a gonna try to tell you that! (Read it in a stereotypical Western Movie accent.) That’s because I did do my homework prior to setting out from Reid Airport that morning. In fact, the first time I visited France was in 1976. We took a Laker charter (you may remember them if you’re as old as dirt like me) to London, then a night train/ferry from London to Paris. Got off the boat in Calais and discovered that the French railroad workers were on strike until 6 am. It was now 4:30 am. I was desperate for coffee and hungry. Luckily there was a counter where one could buy food. We had some Francs. Then, SHOCK! Those people selling the food spoke FRENCH! YOIKS! Luckily for me, the person I was with had taken French. Unluckily, they were afraid to use the language because they might do it wrong? Might? If you weren’t born in Paris, that’s a guarantee! But I asked them how to pronounce various menu items, and ordered and received coffee and some sort of food. Lesson one: French people speak French!

In a few hours we got off the train at Gare Du Nord in Paris. We needed more francs. I trotted over to a change booth and started asking to cash a traveler’s check. SHOCK! The soman in the booth did speak English, and she was extremely nice to me in explaining that it was imperative to use a polite form of address in France, and she explained about Bonjour, Au revoir, S’il vous plait, and merci. (Even in French, those words don’t necessarily sound the way the look like they would.) I’ve followed her instructions with every person I’ve interacted with in France since that morning, and boy howdy, people here are almost unfailingly polite, helpful, and friendly. Lesson two: If you’re polite in the French manner, you get treated well in France.

Those were the biggies. Besides them I came to expect that many businesses close for lunch from roughly noon to 2 pm, many more businesses simply close on Sunday, and traditionally and still today, many businesses that are open Sunday (restaurants and such like) are closed on Monday. Lesson three: be adaptable to local customs.

There are a few more unfamiliar things. Buying gas (essence) by the liter, lotsa roundabouts everywhere, a couple of odd traffic rules, but nothing else that I found shocking, even when I first encountered them. France is, amazingly enough if you know the history of the place, a free country, with the biggest difference being that everyone is expected to consider neighbors and others before acting on one’s own behalf. That, and this has caused me problems a few times, is how my mother raised me to act, although I never really started doing it before that morning in Gare du Nord.

So that’s cool, huh? And my advice from this post, wrapped up nicely? If you’re thinking of moving to France, forget all those wonderful notions of France as a hotbed of culture and refinement. France has culture and refinement, but in the end, what you bring with you is what you’ll notice, at least in terms of interpersonal relations. France is a place. A nice place, not without its problems, but then so is every state in the US, when you get right down to it. Visit a lot, get to know the country and the people and their “French” ways. That way you can get all of your shocks out of the way and settle right into living your life in your new home. Hey, worked out for me so far!

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What Am I Doing?

Took this meself, I did. (You do know what this is, right?)

Last week I told you where I am. Now here is what I’ve been up to. I mean, Blog is short for weB LOG, after all, so here’s a log entry for ya.

I spent three months (almost) in our house in Lizant, France last Spring. Pretty much all Spring, although I was able to enjoy (?) the first of this year’s now famous heat waves. The house retains heat (or cool) pretty well, so with fans, it was okay. Not always great, but okay, so long as I opened all the windows at night and closed them by nine or ten in the morning. There is more I’d like to get done to the place before we move in, from simply painting to overseeing some major remodeling of an old Fish & Chips shop, and a lot of stuff in between. But that will have to wait until the family that has rented it, who are shopping for a house of their own, find and close the deal on said house of their own. It takes about four months to buy a house in France and I don’t think that they have an offer in yet.

This is complicated by the fact that ma bonne mere, mother-in-law, has announced her intention to move back to Phoenix to live with a different daughter this fall. Since her living in our house in Henderson is the reason we couldn’t just up and move to France, well, now we can just up and move to France. Once our house is available, that is. The upside is that they are adding money to our French bank account on a monthly basis. It’s hard to be too upset about that, as our remodeling will probably cost, um rough estimate: a lot!

While I was in France I demonstrated the general rule that breaking any sort of writers’ block may be best accomplished by doing something completely different. I think living in a foreign country (less foreign seeming than it used to be) qualifies. I started a new project, unlike anything I’ve ever done before. I like it. I feel like I must write it, and, amazingly, I don’t really care what the world may think of it. It’s all authentic, all real, and, by cracky, a fantasy. So, I’ve been cranking out a chapter a day (most days) since early June. I’m sure it sucks bigly, which is why I’m looking forward to revising and revising, which probably will start soon. You may see this one for sale yet, folks. As I said, I like it.

And, after years, I’m finally able to do regular runs again. Last week a total of 2.9 blistering miles, with a pace as fast as 12:44. The one-legged man with a bad ankle is having trouble keeping up! And I read, and I watch TV (mostly streamed,) and, well, heck, this is getting long. I’ll post again, maybe even with something funny. ‘Cause I am doing more than I’ve revealed so far. Have a great week, people! Au revoir!

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Follow Me to France

Here is a link to the first video posted on my new YouTube channel. It’s intended for those who followed Tami and myself on our trip last fall, wherein we found a house to buy. The purchase is scheduled to complete on the 29th of March, 2022, and I’ll be in our new house myself on April 12th. If you’re one of those people, you can follow along simply by subscribing to that channel. More information will be available there as it emerges.